DIY Russian-Style Manicure on Natural Nails: Step-by-Step Tutorial
This tutorial shows how to perform a clean Russian-style manicure on natural nails using an e-file, scissors and proper prep. It’s filmed on real hands and is suitable for beginners, nail enthusiasts, and nail tech students who want to practice safe, detailed cuticle work at home.
The goal of this routine is not to apply gel or color, but to create healthy, neat natural nails with a smooth surface and perfectly groomed cuticles - a great base for future gel polish or a beautiful bare “your nails but better” look.
Tools and products you will need
- Orange wood stick or gentle cuticle pusher
- Nail file (around 180 grit) to shape the free edge
- Soft buffer block to smooth the surface
- Baby powder or similar loose powder
- E-file with a fine flame bit (red band recommended)
- Sterilized cuticle scissors
- Cuticle remover or softener
- Lint-free wipes + dehydrator
- Cuticle oil
- Soft brush
Step 1 - Gently push back the cuticle
Start on clean, dry hands. Use an orange wood stick to gently push back the cuticle and open the cuticle pocket. Move slowly along the nail plate, lifting thin dead skin. This prepares the area for detailed e-file work.
Step 2 - Shape the free edge with a nail file
Using a 180-grit file, refine the free edge. File gently and choose the shape you prefer: round, soft square or squoval. Avoid harsh side-to-side sawing - use smooth, controlled motions to prevent splitting.
Step 3 - Lightly buff the nail surface
Use a soft buffer block to remove shine and smooth uneven spots. Do not thin the nail - only lightly refine the surface, especially around the cuticle area where dry skin may remain.
Step 4 - Remove moisture with powder
Lightly apply baby powder to absorb moisture and highlight imperfections. Brush away the excess. Powder helps you see dry cuticle and areas that need additional refinement.
Step 5 - Prepare your e-file
Install a fine flame bit (red band recommended). Use low to medium speed for full control. Make sure the skin and nail are fully dry before starting e-file work.
Step 6 - Clean the cuticle area with the e-file
Gently lift and remove dead cuticle with the flame bit using light pressure. Keep the bit moving and avoid staying in one spot. Repeat on both sides to create a clean, even cuticle line.
Step 7 - Trim lifted cuticle with sterilized scissors
Switch to sterilized cuticle scissors and trim only the lifted dry tissue. Use smooth, continuous motions for a clean, professional cut. Avoid cutting living skin.
Step 8 - Apply cuticle remover (optional)
Apply a small amount of cuticle remover to soften any remaining dry skin. Massage gently and remove with a lint-free wipe. The nail plate should be perfectly clean.
Step 9 - Dehydrate the nail plate
Use nail cleanser or a dehydrator to remove oils and residue. This ensures a clean surface - ideal if you apply gel afterward, and perfect for a natural finish.
Step 10 - Finish with nourishing cuticle oil
Massage a few drops of cuticle oil into the skin to restore comfort and hydration. The nails will look naturally glossy and healthy - the signature of clean Russian-style prep.
Watch the full manicure tutorial
Want to master Russian Manicure professionally? Explore our in-person manicure and pedicure courses at Mars Nails School in Manhattan, NYC.